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Reviews

Kozaemon (Gifu)

kozaemonbin

Please visit Tokyofoodcast’s great website to read the very in-depth article about the sake sent for June’s SakeSwap!

http://tokyofoodcast.com/index.php/et-chan/beautiful-kura-kozaemon/1132

Here are a few excerpts!

Why Kozaemon?
I was a big fan of Kozaemon and I became even more obsessed with them after the visiting Nakashima Shuzo.

The Kozaemon team is headed by the 14th generation of Kozaemon-san and is brewed by three young sake artists from various backgrounds. They have one thing in common: the philosophy toward brewing and their well balanced sense of respect for tradition and innovation.

Tradition:
The brewery sits at by the road which used to be one of the trade centers of old main road from Edo period, Nakasendo, that connected Edo and Kyoto going through the valleys and mountains. Solemn tall black walls topped with tiles surround the brewery and the wooden gate at the entry to the property reminded me of bukeyashiki or old houses of feudal lords in some cities.

At the beginning of the brewing season, three brewers in their thirties, say good-bye to their families to live at the brewery for six months. Although their families live close to the brewery, the brewers choose to stick to the old way, and spend 24 hours a day with the Kozaemon family: listening to their foaming babies in the tank or making koji mold grow the right way by shuffling the wooden boxes all night.

Their day starts around 5:00 am when they sit at the table for breakfast. They work individually without exchanging too many words, but amazingly, everything gets done seamlessly.

kozaemonInnovation:
Team Kozaemon is always trying new things, new rice, new brewing methods, and new markets. For example, they had a Kansai version with cardinal red label. And, it was so different from their rather quiet and elegant bottles. The Kansai version was like every color bursting through. One of the crew, Watanabe-san, is from Osaka and he wanted to pursue his flavor.

About Tokubetsu Junmai Miyamanishiki:
Last time I tasted this particular bottle, Tokubetsu Junmai Miyamanishiki, was in January. So, when I shipped a bottle to @squampton, I bought the same bottle for me to taste as well. More tasting notes will follow.

Discussion

3 comments for “Kozaemon (Gifu)”

  1. Each sip is bursting with lovely fruity flavours! I opened the bottle after eating some grilled saba, and it washed away all memories of the fish, leaving me… thirsty for more!

    Posted by Andrew | June 12, 2009, 10:16 pm
  2. I have drunk Kozaemon before, and it left good impression although I can’t describe details of the flavor (it is always difficult for me to describe aroma and taste of specific sake).
    By the way, I am afraid the package box beside the sake bottle shown in the picture does not appear to be that of Kozaemon but Tokugetsu from Asahi-Shuzo in Niigata Prefecture.

    Posted by Ichiro Nakano | June 16, 2009, 7:53 am
  3. You’re absolutely right about the box! I remember reading the back of the box when I unwrapped it, thinking, “Hmm, Niigata.” I’m guessing that Et-chan has a lot of empty boxes around her place!

    Posted by Andrew | June 16, 2009, 10:11 pm

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